Custom & Bespoke Embroidery in Toronto

At Philip Sparks Tailored Goods Inc., we offer custom embroidery in our Toronto studio. We have two 19th century, hand controlled, free motion embroidery machines. These allow us to add simple details like monograms to a jacket’s inside pocket or produce complex designs that elevate the embellishment of a piece.

Our machines are capable of multiple stitches including chainstitch and moss stitch and can be used to apply a variety of trims including soutache, ribbon and cord. Embroidery can be incorporated into bespoke suits, jackets, shirts, workwear, denim, western wear and other custom garments, with the design developed specifically for the piece and the person wearing it.

Vintage 19th-century free-motion embroidery machine at the Philip Sparks Toronto studio

Vintage Cornely LG free-motion embroidery machine at the Philip Sparks Toronto studio

19th Century Free-Motion Embroidery Machines

Cornely hand-operated, free motion embroidery machines originated in France in the mid 19th century and are used to produce three dimensional couture embroidery. These machines are very rare and hard to come by. We have two types of these machines that can be adjusted to produce a wide range of embroidery styles

Our Cornely LG Chainstitch machine is a hand operated free motion embroidery machine that is a precursor to the more commonly known Singer 114W 103 chainstitch machine. The Cornely LG offers us the same capabilities of the Singer 114W 103 in that it can produce decorative chainstitch and moss stitch or chenille stitch. Chenille stitch is often used for the large block lettering on varsity jackets. Chainstitch lends itself more to monograms and to decorative designs, images, logos and motifs that may be filled in with a mix of colors.

The Cornely LG machine has capabilities that go beyond what can be done on a Singer 114W 103. It can apply trims like cords and ribbons using a chainstitch. It also offers coiling capabilities where a bobbin can be set up to rotate around the needle while it sews. In this way, trims can be wrapped. Tension adjustments, trim styles and coiling speed can all be adjusted for limitless three dimensional embroidery designs. Check out the machines playlist on our Youtube channel to see this machine at work.

Our Cronely FD machine is a hand controlled free motion lockstitch embroidery machine that can be set up with one needle or two. This very rare machine is primarily used for applying trims including sequins, braids, soutache and ribbons. This machine offers a zig zag function as well, which means it can be used to apply multiple trims at once. We can also apply cords from the bottom or to the back of a piece of cloth, produce filled, padded or raised surface designs called Nervure. Check our Youtube channel for videos of this machine at work.

Custom Embroidery for Tailored Clothing

  • Chainstitch embroidery is great for use as monogramming and internal decoration and more conservative suiting. It’s also great for adding braids and trims to smoking jackets and military inspired pieces. Applying trims to the body of a bespoke suit is a great way to create a statement piece.

  • Chainstitch designs are a great way for us to add a monogram to a bespoke shirt in a more discrete location but is also the best way to create all-over decorative and western designs. Apply trims to the front or bib of a shirt and you have a unique statement tuxedo shirt.

  • Chainstitch embroidery has a long history in the decoration of western wear and workwear. Simple options include pocket embellishment on a pair of jeans but all-over western designs on shirts and an embellished back on a denim jacket are possible. Learn more about our custom workwear.

  • Chainstitch embroidery is a classic design feature on western and rodeo wear. This class of garment draws on historical embroidery techniques created using Cornely or Singer 114W 103 machines, incorporating a few small areas of interest or a piece that is dripping with embroidery. Ask our team about options for rhinestones and other embellishment for a truly unique piece.

  • The ability to apply trims in a continuous line pattern that curves and turns in very organic ways is a feature often found on historical garments from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Our embroidery resources allow you the opportunity to bring that look back to life. Of course, these techniques can be found in more recent or vintage periods in a different style. Ask our tailors about what you are trying to achieve.

What Can Be Custom Embroidered?

Almost any garment made from a medium to firm bodied woven material like shirting, suiting, coating and denim can be embroidered. In an ideal world, we embroider garments or portions of garments before we put them together. This way, the back side of things can be concealed behind linings and clean finished on the inside. We can embroider on an existing garment but only an area that can lay flat on our machine surfaces. This means we might not be able to embroider the bicep area of a finished sleeve. We cannot embroider finished, smaller, three dimensional objects like hats, gloves or bags.

The Custom Embroidery Process

  • Every piece starts with a conversation with our tailors. Our sample boards of embroidery styles and images of projects we have competed can help to spark ideas and narrow down the process. Come to us with references and ideas or ask us to do some research on your behalf. For things like simple monograms, we’ll talk with you about colour and placement preferences. For larger embroidery projects, we will sample the designs we have discussed and communicate throughout the process with you.

  • Because our machines are hand controlled, the work isn't simply a computer-generated design being automatically stitched. It’s a fluid and organic process. If we are embroidering a custom garment we are making for you, there is even the chance to draw what you would like and where you would like it directly on the muslin during your muslin or mock up fitting stage. In larger projects, we will send images and communicate about the embroidery process with you as its happening.

  • We will finish the majority of embroidery before a first fabric or skeletal baste fitting so that we can access all areas of the cloth most efficiently and so that we can conceal the wrong side in our finishing process. We can embroider on an existing garment but only an area that can lay flat on our machine surfaces. This means we might not be able to embroider the bicep area of a finished sleeve. We cannot embroider finished, smaller, three dimensional objects like hats, gloves or bags.

  • There are many loose ends to pull to the back and to tie off as the embroidery becomes part of the finished garment. Any additional embellishments like rhinestones are applied as we are in the finishing stages of your embroidery project.

Hand Controlled Embroidery

Unlike computerized embroidery, our vintage, free-motion machines are operated by hand. The person doing the embroidery controls the movement and stitch directly. This is done using a handle underneath the machine. In this processes, we can stitch in any direction. A full 360-degree range of motion is possible. This makes each piece and each area completely unique, highlighting the hand of the embroiderer in the finished pieces.

Custom & Bespoke Embroidery FAQ

  • Yes we offer custom chainstitch and lockstitch embroidery using our 19th century free motion Cornely embroidery machines.

  • Chainstitch, moss stitch or chenille, applications of trims like soutache, ribbon, braid, sequins and multiple trims, coiling and Nervure style embroidery. These techniques can be used for monograms, lettering, logos, images and many other three dimensional effects.

  • Yes, monograms and interior decoration are possible and so is a full rodeo-style suit dripping with embellishment.

  • Yes we offer monogramming using our 19th century Cornely free motion chainstitch embroidery machine. As we are not using computerized machines, this means the monograms are slightly lager (¾” to 1” in height) and usually done in a cursive style. Ask our tailors about hand sewn monogram options as well.

  • Yes, including a smaller back pocket detail on a pair of jeans or full embellishments on a western shirt design. We can also embroider on denim jackets and produce the lettering for varsity jackets.

Custom Embroidery at a Glance

Location: Toronto
Studio: Junction, Toronto's west end
Machines: Two Cornely 19th-century, hand-controlled, free-motion, embroidery machines
Techniques: Chainstitch, moss stitch and free-motion embroidery
Trims: Soutache, ribbon and cord
Services: Monograms, lettering, decorative embroidery and custom designs
Garments: Suits, jackets, shirts, denim, workwear, western wear and historical garments
Clients: Individual clients, designers, film, theatre and other custom projects